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by the way, i have to say, that even given my high expectations for seeing the taj mahal, it completely lived up to them and then some. it's definitely a structure that hits you square in the face. it's so much bigger than i'd anticipated, i think because when you see pictures of it, they usually don't have people in them. so it really doesn't matter that you're there with a thousand other tourists, because they are dwarfed in comparison. it's the kind of place where as you're walking around you kind of forget how amazing it is, and then you look up and stagger a little bit, caught off guard. anyway, i realize how trite it is to wax poetic about the taj mahal. but really. it's amazing.